Beginner · 3–4 hours · 8 steps
How to sew a simple a-line skirt
An A-line skirt is the quickest way to learn real garment shaping. Two panels, a waistband and a hem — but along the way you meet darts, a side seam closure and a curved hem, which are the building blocks of almost everything else.
How it's constructed
- Silhouette
- Fitted at the waist, flaring gently to the hem
- Shaping
- Two back darts, sometimes two front darts
- Waist
- Straight grown-on or separate waistband
- Closure
- Invisible zip in the centre back or left side seam
- Hem
- Single-turned and topstitched, or blind hemmed
Fabrics that work
- Medium-weight cotton twill or denim (holds the A shape crisply)
- Wool suiting for autumn versions
- Linen blend for a softer, more relaxed line
What you'll need
- Invisible or standard zip, 18–20 cm
- Fusible interfacing for the waistband
- Hook and bar, or a single button
The steps, in order
- 01
Measure your waist and hip
Measure your natural waist and the fullest part of your hip, plus the distance between them. That vertical measurement is what makes an A-line skirt fit well.
- 02
Cut the panels and waistband
Cut a front and back panel with the flare added at the side seams, plus a waistband strip long enough for your waist plus overlap and seam allowance.
- 03
Interface the waistband
Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband so it does not stretch out or collapse when you wear it.
- 04
Sew and press the darts
Stitch each dart from the wide end to the point, tapering off the fabric rather than backstitching. Press darts towards the centre back.
- 05
Insert the zip
Sew the seam below the zip opening first, press the whole seam open, then install the zip into the pressed-open allowance. Working this order makes the zip lie flat.
- 06
Sew the remaining side seam
Join the other side seam, finish both seam allowances, and press.
- 07
Attach the waistband
Stitch the interfaced waistband to the skirt right sides together, press it up, fold the inner edge under and either stitch in the ditch or hand-finish it inside.
- 08
Let the skirt hang, then hem
Hang the skirt overnight so bias areas can drop, then trim the hem level, press up and stitch. Add the hook and bar last.
Mistakes worth avoiding
Adding flare at the centre front
Flare belongs at the side seams. Adding it to the centre front makes the skirt swing forward and the hem dip.
Hemming straight away
A flared hem contains bias grain and will drop. Hemming before it settles leaves you with a wavy edge.
Skipping interfacing
An uninterfaced waistband stretches within a week of wear and never looks crisp again.
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