Confident beginner · 4–6 hours · 10 steps
How to sew a gathered linen blouse
A gathered linen blouse is one of the friendliest garments to sew: there are no darts, no zips and no set-in tailoring. The shape comes from gathering a wide rectangle of fabric into a neckline binding, so the fit is forgiving even if your measurements sit between sizes.
How it's constructed
- Silhouette
- Relaxed, hip length, no waist shaping
- Neckline
- Wide neckline gathered into a bias binding or casing
- Sleeves
- Gathered balloon sleeves with an elastic cuff
- Closure
- None — pulled over the head
- Hem
- Narrow double-turned hem
Fabrics that work
- Lightweight linen or linen/cotton blend (150–190 gsm)
- Cotton voile or lawn for a softer drape
- Washed rayon if you want the gathers to fall rather than stand out
What you'll need
- Matching all-purpose thread
- 6–8 mm elastic for the cuffs
- Bias binding, or a strip of your own fabric cut on the bias
The steps, in order
- 01
Prewash and press your fabric
Linen shrinks noticeably on the first wash. Wash and dry it the way you plan to wash the finished blouse, then press it flat before you cut anything.
- 02
Cut your pieces
You need a front and back body piece (both wider than your bust, since the extra width becomes the gathers), two sleeves, and a neckline binding cut on the bias. Cut with the grain running down the length of the body.
- 03
Finish the shoulder and side seam edges
Linen frays quickly. Overlock, zigzag or French-seam the raw edges now while the pieces are still flat — it is much easier than doing it later.
- 04
Sew the shoulder seams
Join front to back at the shoulders, right sides together, and press the seam allowances towards the back.
- 05
Gather the neckline
Sew two rows of long machine stitches just inside the seam allowance around the neckline, then pull the bobbin threads gently until the neckline matches the length of your binding. Even the gathers out with your fingertips.
- 06
Attach and understitch the binding
Pin the bias binding to the gathered neckline, right sides together, and stitch. Press the binding away from the body, then understitch through the binding and seam allowance so it rolls to the inside and stays there.
- 07
Gather and set in the sleeves
Gather the sleeve head between the notches, match its centre to the shoulder seam, and stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Keep the gathers away from the underarm — that area should stay flat.
- 08
Sew the underarm and side seams in one pass
With right sides together, stitch from the sleeve cuff, through the underarm, and down to the hem in a single continuous seam. Press.
- 09
Make the elastic cuffs
Turn the sleeve end up twice to form a casing, leaving a small gap. Thread elastic through, overlap and stitch the ends, then close the gap.
- 10
Hem the blouse
Turn the hem up 1 cm, press, turn again and stitch. Press the whole blouse and try it on before you trim any length.
Mistakes worth avoiding
Gathering with regular stitch length
Short stitches will not slide. Use the longest stitch your machine offers and loosen the tension slightly.
Skipping the understitch
Without understitching, the neckline binding rolls to the outside every time you wear it.
Cutting the body too narrow
The gathers need surplus width. If the front piece is only as wide as your bust, you get a fitted blouse with a puckered neckline instead of soft folds.
Want this plan for your measurements?
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