Beginner · 2–3 hours · 8 steps
How to sew a boxy tee
A boxy tee has four pieces and takes an evening, but knit fabric behaves differently from woven, so the technique matters more than the pattern. Get the neckband ratio and the stitch right and it looks shop-bought.
How it's constructed
- Silhouette
- Straight through the body, dropped shoulder
- Neckline
- Crew neck finished with a stretch neckband
- Sleeves
- Flat-set short sleeves, sewn in before the side seams
- Closure
- None
- Hem
- Twin-needle or narrow zigzag hem
Fabrics that work
- Cotton jersey, 180–220 gsm, with 5% elastane
- Interlock for a more structured, less clingy tee
- Avoid very drapey rayon jersey for your first attempt
What you'll need
- Polyester thread (it has a little give)
- Ballpoint or jersey machine needle
- Clear elastic or stay tape for the shoulder seams
The steps, in order
- 01
Fit a jersey needle and choose a stretch stitch
Use a ballpoint needle and either a narrow zigzag or your machine's stretch stitch. A straight stitch will pop the first time the seam stretches.
- 02
Cut on the correct grain
The greatest stretch must run around the body, not up and down. Cut the front, back, two sleeves and a neckband.
- 03
Sew and stabilise the shoulder seams
Join front to back at the shoulders and stitch clear elastic or stay tape into the seam so the shoulders never stretch out.
- 04
Cut the neckband to the right length
The neckband should be roughly 85% of the neckline measurement, so it pulls the neckline in slightly. Measure, do not guess.
- 05
Attach the neckband
Join the band into a loop, fold it wrong sides together, quarter both band and neckline, then stitch stretching only the band to fit as you go.
- 06
Set the sleeves flat
With the body still open at the sides, stitch each sleeve into its armhole. Flat-setting is far easier than sewing a sleeve in the round.
- 07
Sew both side seams in one pass
Fold right sides together and stitch from each sleeve hem down to the body hem.
- 08
Hem the sleeves and body
Turn up 2 cm and hem with a twin needle or narrow zigzag. Press gently — do not stretch the fabric while it is warm.
Mistakes worth avoiding
Making the neckband the same length as the neckline
It then gapes and stands away from the body. It needs to be shorter so it draws the neckline in.
Stretching the hem while stitching
Guide the fabric, do not pull it. Pulling gives you the wavy hem everyone recognises as homemade.
Cutting jersey with the stretch running vertically
The tee then has no give across the chest and feels tight even though the measurements were right.
Want this plan for your measurements?
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