Confident beginner · 30–45 minutes · 7 steps
How to sew bias binding
Bias binding is the neatest way to finish a curved edge, and cutting your own from the garment fabric looks far better than shop-bought tape. Because it is cut at 45 degrees to the grain it stretches around curves — as long as you let it, rather than forcing it.
Why it's worth learning
Binding finishes necklines, armholes, hems, quilt edges and bag openings. It replaces facings entirely, which removes the flappy interior of a lot of homemade garments.
What you'll need
- A ruler and rotary cutter, or scissors and a 45-degree guide
- A bias tape maker (optional, but it saves a lot of pressing)
- Iron
Fabric notes
- Lightweight cotton, voile and lawn make the most cooperative binding.
- Avoid heavy or stiff fabric for binding — it won't hug a curve.
- For self-binding, cut from the garment fabric if it is light enough; otherwise pick a lighter fabric in a matching colour.
The steps, in order
- 01
Cut strips on the true bias
Find the 45-degree line between the lengthwise and crosswise grain and cut strips along it, usually 3.5–4 cm wide for a narrow finish.
- 02
Join strips on the diagonal
Place two strip ends right sides together at right angles, stitch across the diagonal, trim and press open. A diagonal join spreads the bulk so it doesn't show as a lump.
- 03
Press the folds
Fold and press the strip in half lengthways, then press each raw edge in towards the centre — or run it through a bias tape maker.
- 04
Stabilise and measure the edge
Necklines stretch. Measure the pattern piece rather than the sewn edge, and cut your binding to that length so you are not binding a stretched-out neckline.
- 05
Stitch the binding to the right side
Open one fold, pin the binding to the edge right sides together, and stitch along the fold line. Let the bias ease itself around inner curves; don't stretch it.
- 06
Press it away from the garment and fold over
Press the binding out, then fold it over the raw edge to the wrong side so it just covers your first stitch line.
- 07
Finish with edgestitch or stitch in the ditch
Stitch from the right side, either just inside the binding edge or exactly in the seam groove. Both give a clean finish; the ditch is more invisible.
Mistakes worth avoiding
Cutting strips on the straight grain
They won't curve. The binding then ripples on outer curves and pulls tight on inner ones.
Joining strips with a straight seam
You get a thick bump exactly where the binding needs to fold. Join on the diagonal.
Stretching the binding as you sew
The neckline shrinks and stands away from the body once it relaxes.
Practise it on a project
Want the steps for your own project?
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